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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.